During the first few days in India, a big part of my energies was devoted to rehydration. About five to six litres of water had to be bought and carried in the first place - two physically highly demanding tasks regarding the climatic conditions. Even at three am, one hour before first daylight, the temperature did not fall below 32°C. Days were windless and humid with up to 40°C.
This did not stop the curious mind to explore heat- ridden Trichy with its many historic temples. As a first-comer, India’s streets are most fascinating. The road is loaded with a plurality of traffic participants such as rickshaws, pedestrians, bikes, scooters, cars, cows, busses, trucks, bullocks, motorbikes, and dogs - all happily united in heavy congestion and moving slowly forwards, backwards, and sometimes not at all.
The street is not only a spectacle of people on the move, but life itself. Trichy’s roads proved what later turned out to be a typical feature of most human settlements in India: A huge part of life takes place open air, on the street. There you find people not only walking, chilling, cooking and eating, but also washing, working, sleeping, chatting, selling, and defecating.
The Indian street appears like a microcosm of the bustling beauty and vivid plurality of Indian society and culture. However, it also remorselessly reveals the widening social gaps and environmental challenges economically rising India is facing. Heavy congestion and the ever present smell of an open sewage system gave Trichy’s streets a remarkable smell. Many people, especially commuters from the country side, coming to sell their agricultural produce on the market, did not look like they get a fair share of famous Indian GDP growth.
Still, Trichy and its surroundings were simply fascinating, inspiring, beautiful and sensuous places. Delicious South Indian food, historic temples, long walks, bus and train-rides filled the day while philosophising locals, fellow travellers, and anthropological observations sweetened my experiences until departure.
The train ride took me 1563km East and North to Bhubaneswar, the capital of Orissa. On my way, I saw my future object of study spreading beyond the horizon: Endless rice-fields in Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Orissa emphasised impressively how many people in this country are living in rural areas and working in agriculture. The views only hinted at what there was yet to come.