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Gnoky or nyokkey: which one is correct?

Gnoky or nyokkey: which one is correct? Gnoky or nyokkey: which one is correct?

Photographer:Fotograaf: Kate Surala

Work like a slave, eat like a king

If you don’t speak Italian, even pronouncing the word gnocchi might put you off ordering it. Is it gnoky? I won’t pretend the idea didn’t scare me. But as it’s the typical Italian dish at the local restaurant Da Nonna, I simply went with nyokkey and hoped for the best. The energetic young Italian cook, who also doubles as the waiter, promised I’d have my dish within 15 minutes so I could get to my next appointment. Italian friends had warned that the trick to good gnocchi is using the right potato, which should be neither too waxy nor too starchy. In my opinion, proper gnocchi should be fluffy, melt in your mouth and leave you with a slimy aftertaste.

I’ve moaned plenty of times about the standard of Italian cuisine in the plethora of so-called ‘authentic’ Italian restaurants in Maastricht. Unfortunately, this ‘grannie’s’ restaurant (Da Nonna means ‘grandmother’ in Italian) did little to change my mind. The first clue: it’s almost always empty.
My meal was served in a plastic box, carefully wrapped in a French fries recyclable paper bag with no fork. Opening the box, I was unpleasantly surprised to find that the gnocchi were hidden in a thick, heavy and spicy tomato sauce with enormous pieces of salmon. Wouldn’t you expect a light, creamy sauce with fresh herbs when you order fish? Even the parmesan couldn’t save the dish: rather than being served with a freshly grated portion of parmesan, my gnocchi came with a small portion of dry, yellowish powder that had obviously been left in the fridge too long.

To top it all off, given how quiet the restaurant was it peeved me that the one staff member was not overly attentive. If you ask me, I prefer a little more personal service when it comes to choosing a dish. At least the inside of the restaurant sets the true Italian atmosphere and makes you feel like sitting in a warm, Mediterranean climate with a fresh wooden smell.

Kate Surala

-> Da Nonna, Kommel 5


My menu


Gnocchi salmone









Every week Kate Surala, master's student of European Public Affairs and student tutor at the Faculty of Law, reviews a restaurant, coffee bar, catering shop or 'to go' in Maastricht.



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